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10 things to do to prepare your home for winter

By Robert Carper
The  Old Farmer's Almanac' sees a cold, snowy winter for U.S in 2015.  To help prevent insurance claims this year, Consider the following  home maintenance tips.  Give your home a once-over and tend to winter preparation tasks and repairs before the year’s first frost. Conduct a thorough inspection before the season’s first cold snap as part of your winter preparation “Getting the exterior of the home ready for the cold winds, snow and ice is critical for keeping Old Man Winter out and keeping it warm and toasty inside

1) Check Your Heating System
 

 

 

2) Turn it around - Reverse your ceiling fan

Get a technician to inspect your furnace or heat pump to be sure the system is clean and in good repair, and that it can achieve its manufacturer-rated efficiency. The inspection also measures carbon-monoxide leakage. If you act soon, you'll minimize the chance of being 200th in line for repairs on the coldest day of the year.

 

If your ceiling fan has a reverse switch, use it to run the fan's blades in a clockwise direction after you turn on your heat. Energy Star says the fan will produce an updraft and push down into the room heated air from the ceiling (remember, hot air rises).This is especially helpful in rooms with high ceilings -- and it might even allow you to turn down your thermostat by a degree or two for greater energy savings.

 

3) Prevent Ice Dams

A home-energy auditor or weatherization contractor can identify and fix air leaks and inadequate insulation in your home's attic that can lead to ice dams. If you had the work done before December 31, 2013, you can claim the federal energy-efficiency tax credit for 10% of the cost (excluding installation), up to $500. Your state or utility may offer a rebate, too.

 4) The Roof

Or at least scan it closely with binoculars. Look for damaged, loose or missing shingles that may leak during winter’s storms or from melting snow. If need be, hire a handyman to repair a few shingles  Check and repair breaks in the flashing seals around vent stacks and chimneys, too.
 

If your roof is flat and surfaced with asphalt and pebbles, as many are in the Southwest, rake or blow off fall leaves and pine needles, which hold moisture, (Don't sweep aside the pebbles; that will expose the asphalt to damaging sunlight.)

5) Caulk Around Windows and Doors

I need to do a better job of this. Remove any old caulk and paint, using a putty knife, large screwdriver, stiff brush, or special solvent. Make sure the area is dry so you don't seal in moisture. Apply caulk to all joints in a window frame and the joint between the frame and the wall. Hold the gun at a consistent angle. If the gaps between siding and window or door frames are bigger than the width of a nickel, you need to reapply exterior caulk. (Check the joints in window and door frames, too.) Silicone caulk is best for exterior use because it won’t shrink and it’s impervious to the elements.

6) Clean the Gutters

If your gutters are full of detritus, water can back up against the house and damage roofing, siding and wood trim -- plus cause leaks and ice dams. Also look for missing or damaged gutters and fascia boards and repair them.

7) Redirect  Water

Add extensions to downspouts so that water runs at least 3 to 4 feet away from the foundation, says home-improvement expert David Lupberger.Add extensions to downspouts so that water runs at least 3 to 4 feet away from the foundation, says home-improvement expert David Lupberger.

8) Protect Your Irrigation System From Winter Damage

Even if you have drained the water out of your irrigation system, some water remains and can freeze, expand, and crack PVC piping (rigid, white pipe). Polyethylene pipe (flexible, black pipe) is used in many freezing climates. Although polyethylene pipe is more flexible and can expand under pressure, water left inside can freeze and rupture the pipe walls. Freezing water in the backflow assembly will damage the internal components and can crack the brass body.
To minimize the risk of freeze damage, you'll need to winterize your irrigation system. In areas where winterization is mandatory, irrigation systems are installed using one of three types of water removal: manual drain, auto drain, or blowout. If you don't know your system type, it is best to use the blowout method.

Manual Drain Method
 

Use the manual drain method when manual valves are located at the end and low points of the irrigation piping. To drain these systems, simply shut off the irrigation water supply and open all the manual drain valves.

Once the water has drained out of the mainline, open the boiler drain valve or the drain cap on the stop and waste valve (whichever is used in your area) and drain all the remaining water that is between the irrigation water shut off valve and the backflow device. Open the test cocks on the backflow device. If your sprinklers have check valves, you'll need to pull up on the sprinklers to allow the water to drain out of the bottom of the sprinkler body. Depending on the location of the drain valves, there could be some water left in the backflow, the piping, and the sprinklers. When all the water has drained out, close all the manual drain valves.

Automatic Drain Method
 

Use this method when automatic drain valves are located at the end and low points of the irrigation piping. These will automatically open and drain water if the pressure in the piping is less than 10 PSI. To activate these, shut off the irrigation water supply (shut off will be located in the basement and will be either a gate/globe valve, ball valve, or stop and waste valve - see drawings below) and activate a station to relieve the system pressure.

Once the water has drained out of the mainline, open the boiler drain valve or the drain cap on the stop and waste valve (whichever is used in your area) and drain the remaining water that is between the irrigation water shut off valve and the backflow device. Open the test cocks on the backflow device. If your sprinklers have check valves you'll need to pull up on the sprinklers to allow the water to drain out the bottom of the sprinkler body. Depending on the location of the drain valves, there could be some water left in the backflow, the piping, and the sprinklers.

In some areas you might have a combination of the manual drain system on the mainline (the pipe between the irrigation water shut off valve and the valves) and auto drain system on the lateral lines (the pipe between the valves and the sprinklers).

Blow Out Method

blow sensors can potentially be damaged by winterization blow out techniques, and should be removed prior to injecting compressed air into the pipes.  Save and use the blank plug
 (P/N 536100) supplied with Hunter FCT fittings to replace the sensor, and seal the pipe during winterization.
More information WARNING! Wear ANSI-approved safety eye protection! Extreme care must always be taken when blowing out an irrigation system with compressed air. Compressed air can cause serious injury, including serious eye injury, from flying debris. Always wear ANSI approved safety eye protection and do not stand over any irrigation components (pipes, sprinklers, and valves) during air blow out. Serious personal injury may result if you do not proceed as recommended! It is best for a qualified licensed contractor to perform this type of winterization method.

9) Mulch Leaves When You Mow

I did not know this. It's great to have big shade trees in your yard. But, come fall, you can start to resent them. Those big trees drop leaves, and that means extra work, hassle, and lost time. However, there's good news. Forget about raking, blowing, and bagging leaves. Instead, just mulch them with your lawn mower. It'll save you work, improve your soil, and add nutrients. The trick is to cut the leaves, while dry, into dime-sized pieces that will fall among the grass blades, where they will decompose and nourish your lawn over the winter. Use your lawn mower without its bag, and optionally swap the cutting blade for a mulching blade

10) Test Your Sump Pump 

Slowly pour several gallons of water into the sump pit to see whether the pump turns on. You should do this every few months, but especially after a long dry season or before a rainy one.

For more complete instructions for testing and maintenance, check your owner’s manual. Most sump pumps last about ten years, according to Chubb Personal Insurance.

Bonus tip - Chimney care

How often do you check your chimney is in good nick? Never mind Santa and the delivery of goodies. Your fireplace could be a hazard — and the problems are hidden from view. You need to protect against blockages, smoke leaks, inadequate ventilation, insufficient draw, down-draught and tar build-up.  Make sure your fireplace (or any heating appliance burning gas, oil, wood or coal), chimney and vents are clean and in good repair. That will prevent chimney fires and prevent carbon monoxide from creeping into your home.

 

 

    By Robert Carper

COLD WEATHER CAR CARE 2015-16

Winter verses your car and how you can win and help prevent auto claims

The calendar still says it’s November, in the northern hemisphere many people are starting to see winter conditions. Freezing rain and snow covered roads It is a good idea for  motorists that cars need seasonal checkups to maintain safety and maximize operational efficiency. Regular maintenance and seasonal checkups can also help prevent unexpected repair costs in the future. Drivers should use a simple checklist to determine their vehicle’s fall and winter maintenance needs. . Not sticking to manufacturer-scheduled services and regular maintenance can be a costly and dangerous mistake for car owners. And those risks can run even higher in cold winter weather – when worn tires are that much more likely to skid, and a breakdown can mean getting stranded in freezing temperatures.

 Many of the items on the following list can be inspected by a car owner in less than an hour, but others should be performed by a certified technician.

 

1.The Battery. This is an ideal time of year to make sure your battery’s posts and connections are corrosion-free and that your battery has all the water it needs. If your battery is more than three years old, have a certified repair shop test its ability to hold a charge. Granted, you might be able to find a Good Samaritan to help you jump-start your vehicle in the middle of a blizzard — but wouldn’t you rather avoid such a scenario altogether?

2. Do you have four-wheel drive? If so, it’s important to check the status of your four-wheel-drive system and be sure it’s working correctly — especially because most drivers don’t use their 4WD systems in the pleasant summer months. Be sure that the system engages and disengages easily, and that all drivers in your household know how and when to activate the system.

3. Be Proactive about Antifreeze – In a recent Autobytel survey, only 27% of drivers said they regularly replace their antifreeze, and an alarming 35% admitted that they’ve never changed their vehicle’s coolant. Don’t make the same mistake. Your car's coolant/antifreeze breaks down over time, so be sure to change it (not just add it) before temperatures start to drop. Keep in mind that higher-level coolants don’t necessarily provide higher levels of protection. In fact, while higher-level coolants reduce the freezing point and raise the boiling point, they can actually cause engines to run slightly hotter, leading to oil breakdown and increased wear and tear. Refer to your owner’s manual for the proper coolant level for your vehicle.

4. Tire Safety – Sixty-percent of the drivers surveyed by Autobytel (mistakenly) said that a vehicle’s tire inflation specifications can be found on the tires themselves. But, in fact, the pressure indications stamped on the tires refer to the maximum pressure of the tire cold, not the proper driving pressure to ensure optimum handling, safety, and fuel economy. That information can be found either on the inside of the driver’s car door or doorframe, as well as the owner’s manual. Another thing to keep in mind is that tires need to be replaced every six years, even if there’s still plenty of tread. Over time, rubber steadily hardens, making tires less pliant and more slippery on roads.

5. Change Your Lights – Proactively replace your fog, brake, and tail lights before they burn out. It’s a relatively inexpensive job, and it can help you avoid a dangerous situation, particularly in poor-visibility conditions when a burned-out tail light can transform your car into a “motorcycle” in the eyes of upcoming drivers.

6. Washer Fluid – Water may suffice for your windshield fluid reservoir in summer, but use a detergent-based formula, which has a much lower freezing point, during the winter. The only thing worse than water getting frozen in the washer dispenser is having it freeze on your windshield.

7. Oil Tips – In this day and age of confusing SAE grades, synthetics and highly-engineered engines, the old rule of thumb about using a lighter weight oil in winter doesn’t necessarily apply. Refer to your owner’s manual for the weight/grade of oil you should be using seasonally. And always get your oil changed at a dealership. Generally speaking, dealerships are motivated to keep your car running well and know the proper oil for your vehicle. Oil-change retail chains, on the other hand, are motivated to lower costs by using bulk quantities of the same type of oil, whether or not it’s right for your vehicle.

8.The Wipers – Wiper blades deteriorate rapidly after one year. Get them changed, before you really need them.

9. Prepare an emergency kit. Store this stuff in your trunk during the winter months, especially if a road trip is in your future:

•         a blanket
•        extra boots and gloves
•        an extra set of warm clothes
•        extra water and food, including hard candies
•        an ice scraper
•        a small shovel
•        a flashlight
•        windshield washer fluid
•        windshield wipers
•        flares
•        jumper cables
•        a tool kit
•        tire chains
•        a tire gauge
•        a spare tire with air in it
•        tire-changing equipment
•        a first-aid kit
•        paper towels
•      a bag of abrasive material such as sand, salt or non-clumping kitty litter, which can provide additional traction if a tire gets stuck in snow.
•      Also, keep the gas tank as full as you can to prevent the gas lines from freezing.

9.Hit the Mats – Don’t forget to break out those winter floor mats to protect your car’s carpets from the water, snow, or mud on your shoes. If you don’t have them for your car, visit your dealership. Given how little mats cost – and how big a difference they can make in terms of your vehicle’s appearance and resale value – it’s well worth the investment.

10. Driving in Winter Conditions

I’ll get back to that particular driver, however, before I do, it is important to consider some useful tips for driving safely during this time of the year. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) and AAA have put together a number of suggestions for safe winter driving. Below are five those tips:

·  First and foremost, drive slower. When the roads are snow covered, and especially when they are icy, it is harder to control your car and you need more distance between you and any vehicle in front. Allow for more space between your car and the one in front of you than you normally do.

· Second, know what type of brakes you have on your car. It makes a difference. With antilock brakes you apply firm steady pressure when braking. If you don’t have antilock brakes, then you need to pump them when trying to stop.

·  Third, if you start into a skid, keep calm and take your foot off the gas and continue steering in the direction you want the car to go. Keep your foot off of the gas and the brakes until you are back in control of your car.

·  Fourth, don’t use your cruise control in icy conditions.

·  Fifth, Be especially careful on bridges, overpasses and infrequently traveled roads, which will freeze first. Even at temperatures above freezing, if the conditions are wet, you might encounter ice in shady areas or on exposed roadways such as bridges.